Sunday, January 31, 2010

Numb Butt Passage

We finally saw a weather window for Belize, just like Santa Clause we checked once then checked it twice then again we confirmed with our meteorologist friend on Tiger Lily 2 and off we went…

Oh what a feeling or lack of a feeling.
For those who have done a passage you can relate to the numb butt passage. The forecast was for 15-20 the first day, dying to 10-15. As luck would have it we started with 10-15 and the winds did die off. We ended up motor sailing for all but 6 hours of our 3 day passage to Belize. Not something to complain about after getting beaten going to Grand Cayman! Boring is good. Two books read!

During our passage we celebrated our One year anniversary of retirement with a beer in a champagne glass with a hint of Lime.

As we saw the sun rise on our third day, Belize was in sight. We made our way through the Barrier Reef and head to the Belize Yacht Club…..after running aground 4 times we finally got on the radio and asked for assistance on what sand patch to take to the docks. An Aussi came on the radio and directed us in by saying “a little to port mate…..more to port…it will get shallow soon but no worries mate” He was not kidding it was swallow, we went aground again, so now we know exactly how much water we need to float the boat. We finally made it to the dock and did all the usual check in with customs and immigration stuff. First impression of San Pedro was we love it. They drive around in golf carts because there are very few roads and it is an easy way to get around. We walked the town in 1 hour to get the lay of the land.

We arrived in Belize on a Tues and had friends fly in (Deb and Jim) on Thursday. After meeting them at the airport in a golf cart we went off to find a dive operator to dive the Great Blue Hole the next day. So the next morning before even the sun was up the 4 of us were off to the Blue Hole a 2 hour boat ride. The blue hole 1000 feet across and 412 deep. This is the hole is famous for the stalactites around the 130 – 160 feet depth. We did see some sharks but they were not hungry that day so we were okay. After diving the Blue Hole we went off to two other dive sites that we loved, we swam in and out of among coral tunnel and met a few fishes along the way including some spotted and southern rays. We lunched on island that had red footed boobies (birds) and after an all day diving adventure we got back to the boat and crashed.

The next day was the tour of the island on our hot rod golf cart with Cheryl trying to hit every pot hole she could find. Day 3 of Deb and Jim’s visit was a lazy day at the pool and watching the football game. Their team lost but the boat beside us (Steve and Monica on Fedilis 2) their team won so good banter was had by all.

Day 4 was a tour to the main land via local ferry arranged by this woman we meet on the road who offered a great deal. So we left for the main land at 6:15 a.m. so much for sleeping in. We were met by Denis (local taxi driver) started off by saying he had beer and rum punch for us ….a interesting way of starting a day…we opted for coffee and juice. The first stop was the Zip lines through the trees, were we had some great laughs. Karen over came her fear of heights for at least a minute or two. We only swallowed a few bugs as we smiled all the way. After getting our legs back on the ground off we went to float our butts down a river through some caves. First step is to numb your feet then comes your butt as you float down the river in an inner tube. At one point our guide would yell out “Butts up” as we would have to raise our butts or we would run aground on the rocks. After our lunch we headed off to Old Belize City were Jim and Cheryl, who did not get enough of the Zip line, tried the Zip line the Old Belize City a 450 drop. We made it back to San Pedro and crashed once again after another fun filled day.

On Deb and Jim’s last day we went off for a little snorkeling tour at the reef just by the dock and saw a ray and some great fishes. Week one of Belize summarized in a word ‘Super’.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

The Passage of the Travelling Wok

After checking the weather a million times and not seeing a long enough weather window to go to Belize, it is 4.5 days sail, we opted to go to Grand Cayman a 1.5 day sail and break the Belize passage up and after the front moves thru we would continue to Belize, a further 3 days.

The weather sites we researched forecasted we will have 3 days weather window before a cold front comes down from Canada. We only need a 1.5 days to get to Cayman so off we went.

Well what can we say….we had 8-12 foot seas, winds at 20-30 knots with gust a lot higher…..with confused seas…..The seas were not the only things confused needless to say it was rough. At one point Cheryl was down below getting a drink of water when a wave hit the side of the point (the confused wave) the wok that is normally safely stowed under the over and Cheryl not safely stowed away went flying. Newton’s law of Gravity what goes up must come down but the light one goes down first heavy second, you guessed it Wok landed first then Cheryl on top of the Wok. The Wok has a new bend in it and Cheryl is brandishing a “wok butt bruise”. There is new ancient Chinese provoke: “Wok stowed properly may someday bit you in the butt”.

Anyways we arrived safely into Cayman with a warm welcome from Port Security, Harbour Control and Customs and a ice pack for Cheryl’s butt. Sorry No Pictures

We kept checking the weather to see when we could continue our passage to Belize but those damn Canadians kept sending down cold fronts. In fact it was so cold down in Cayman we had to dig out our socks and sweats. It got down to a high of 19c dropping to 10C at night, burrrrrr…..We rented a car for couple of days and toured the island, there is a village called ‘Hell’ here but we could not find so we can honestly say we tried to find ‘Hell’ but got lost. We walk the famous 7 mile beach twice in one day Karen calls this walk her pedicure, Cheryl just calls it a long walk. We went out for some great food and one memorable night was at the Old House, the Petra Plantation this dinner was a Christmas present from Karen’s dad. Cayman is known as Cruise Ship destination with 2-3 cruise ships in a day and also for great diving and the famous Stingray City, but it was so cold we decide we would stay above the water instead…wimps.

We met up with some friends we met in Jamaica Wilfried and Annette on Sentra had dinner on Interlude and on our last day in Cayman had drinks with them in one of the many bars downtown along with all the thousand of other tourist. To describe Grand Cayman is like going to Fort Lauderdale. Unless you go under the water, then it is amazing!

Final Week in Jamaica

Christmas in the tropics, was great we spent Christmas Eve with the crew from the 138 foot Islandia and on Christmas day we enjoyed a Cornish hen dinner on Interlude. It was weird to hear Christmas carols and seeing Christmas decoration on palm trees but we will get use to it. Cheryl got her Christmas wish to go up the mast of Islandia, 125 feet up “What a View”.

After checking the weather we made our way down to Montego Bay with Interlude where we stayed for a couple of days repaired another diesel tank leak (on our brand new tank) and toured around the town a bit. Montego Bay is not a touristy as Ocho Rios. Cheryl’s cousin and his Wife (Bill and Laurie) where at a Sandals resort and we got to meet up with them for a ½ day before they flew home to the cold. The four of us snuck into a Sandals resort in Montego Bay (okay Bill and Laurie used there pass we snuck) for an afternoon of all you can drink and eat. After that we took them to the boat for a quick tour. It was great fun.

It was New Years Eve and rather then going out we spent a quite night on Interlude. Since we are true cruisers or we are getting old now (we like that former) we stayed up to celebrate New Years till of 9 p.m. we figure it is News Year day some where in the world. We woke up at midnight to the sound of fireworks going off, then back to sleep! After doing some final shopping off we went with Interlude to Negril the western most part of Jamaica.

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Week 2 and 3 in Jamaica

Well we have been touring. We visited the Bob Marley mausoleum and his birth place, well the cost was $15.00 US, and we would like to say the highlight of the tour was the rock that Bob Marley sat on, thought and composed some of his songs. We of course were offered some ganja because at Bob Marley’s place it legal (sure).

We also went to Ocho Rios a tourist town where cruise ships come in. Every second person asked Karen if she would like her hair braided and Cheryl was only asked once, the rest asked Cheryl if they could roll a joint for her. Go figure. It was wall to wall vendors peddling their wares or services. Needless to say we were underwhelmed and very happy to get back to the quite of our little marina.

After some boat work we went touring again. Along with another boat we rented a car and toured the Blue Mountains, they are famous for their coffee. Well the day began very early with a lovely drive up the north coast of Jamaica then we turn inland on an old road that went from the north shore to Kingston on the south shore. The road we heard was washed out by hurricane Dennis. The plan was to go as far as we could go then find a way back to our boat. Well they were right about the road it was old, windy, very narrow (don’t forget we are heading up into the mountains, 7200 ft). In some place there was very little of the road left or a boulder in the road. In fact in one section we had to go through a private coffee plantation to continue our trip.

Since we were going across their property we had a little tour, we learned how they pick and roast the coffee. Of course we had to try some and buy some. So could now say we say how Blue Mountain is made coffee. Cheryl was given a baby coffee plant to grow so in 18 months we can see if we have coffee. Yah right.

After leaving what we thought was the rough part of the road we ventured towards home. Well the cows and goat did not even use the road. At one point we had to get out of the car and push it up the hill. On the map the road showed a lot of switch backs and lots of turns, that was an understatement. At every fork in the road we would stop and ask, usually a guy with a machete, which road to “whatever” and with a smile and probably a snicker they would point to the road. We did see some amazing views. We went across river where women were washing their clothes, under bridges and over boulders. By the way we were driving a Toyota Corolla. Well we finally were reward with a semi paved road and a breathtaking view of Kingston (the capital of Jamaica). As we ventured towards Kingston, Anick (French boat that we rented the car with noticed a resort/spa which was on her must see list, so we went in. The place was called Strawberry Hill, well it was spectacular, and you had the view of Kingston and the Blue Mountains. The rich and famous go here for a get away but they let us in anyways.

Finally we found a road that was paved and made our way home and to bed early but it was a great day and the Jamaican people along the way and the view made the trip very special.

We journeyed into Kingston for some provisioning with Islandia’s chef, a 138 foot boat that is here every year. Sue took us to an amazing supermarket were we found all the little things we wanted and more at very reasonable prices. This time the food bill was more than the wine bill! We are working on correcting that oversight!

We had dinner with the dock master/head of operations of Errol Flynn Marina, along with Frank and Sue on Islandia. Great food and lots of laughs. 15 minutes after we arrived back at the boat a squall came through. Interlude was just fine. However, Islandia managed to loose her anchor and had to leave the dock in the middle of the squall! Some fine boat handling by Frank and helping hands from two of the boats on the dock allowed them to get off the dock, avoid the other boats and set anchor in the harbour. More than enough excitement for the night! (By the way during the squall we were freezing, hot tea was the order of the night.)

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Bonaire and Jamaica Man

Bonaire is described as “Divers Paradise” and it lives up to its name. Bonaire is a marine park there seems to be abundance of fish it is like they want to get there picture taken or just want to come up and say hi. We spent most of our days under water but occasionally we did come up for air and went to this windsurfing beach for the day and sat and read a book and watched the beginners windsurfers make some amazing landings.

After one of our dives our rental truck got broken into and our wallets, cell phone and Cheryl’s shorts were stolen. The robbers had smashed the passenger window. The rental car agency had warned us to keep our windows open but we did not listen. We were not the only one broken into that day, there was a least 3 others. Busy robbers. The good news on the last day before we left Cheryl went into the police station and someone had found our stuff minus the money, Karen’s cell phone and most important Cheryl’s shorts. Cheryl’s short are the ones with the zipper legs, she still has the legs but no shorts to attach too. It has been suggested that Cheryl should wear the legs with suspenders. We will let you know how that fashion statement takes off down here. It would be cool, but she may get sunburn.

Our friend Dan from Canada who sailed down from Cuba to Aruba with us in 2003 came down to sail up from Bonaire to Jamaica. After a quick tour of Bonaire with Dan we did our final food shopping and food prep. And a last trip to Casa Blanca, a restaurant offering an Argentinean beef grill, which provides many days of very tasty left overs.

We left at 8:30 am for a 4 ½ day sail up to Jamaica. Our neighbour (Wendy from Canada) on the mooring ball beside us came over before we left to say “see you down island somewhere” and gave us sushi and California spring rolls for our lunch that day. It was an amazing treat. The fist night was a little bouncy to sleep so none of us slept but by the second night we all got into the groove of the boat and the watches. We where visited by dolphins and a very occasional ship pasted us but mostly it was just us and the beautiful sea. It rained twice for about 20 minutes and the winds slowly died down along with the seas which gave us the opportunity to fly our new sail which is a large downwind sail. At one point we saw 10.2 knot on the GPS. Our boat top speed is 8 knots. We where flying.

On the last morning we slowly started to see the Blue Mountains of Jamaica peek up in the horizon. After leaving Bonaire a very dry island where only cactus grow, to see the beautiful lush island of Jamaica is quite a contrast. As we pulled up to slip at Earl Flynn marina in Port Antonia we were greeted with “Welcome to Jamaica Man”. The people here are very friendly and helpful. After washing down the boat and getting through all the doctor, custom and immigration paper work we went exploring the town of Port Antonia. Before long we had arranged a site seeing tour to go down the Rio Grande river on a banana raft.

After a full night sleep without any boat movement we went off to the Rio Grande with our guide Captain Rebbo and our taxi driver David. The trip was amazing, we learned that the raft where originally and are still used to ship bananas down the river but it was Earl Flynn who started the trend of taking people down the river. For him it was an opportunity to take his lady friends down the river for a romantic boat ride. After watching Captain Rebbo’s technique of pole and steering us down the river, Karen asked if she could give it a try. Well we all got a try on poling our way down the river, even through some very small rapids.

So now we are just planning which bay we are going to visit next in Jamaica and of course go and explore the Blue Mountains and buy some of their famous coffee.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Time to Play - Bonaire

Time passes so quickly! We have now been in Bonaire for 2 and a half weeks!
We counted down until we left Trinidad until the “To Do” is done. The last month we spent chasing down contractors to finish the work like install the new diesel tank, install the new stainless steel arch and the sun screens. Karen was busy recover all the cushions downstairs, and we all including Dwayne continued to rebuild, replace and install all the new tools for Interlude. List of new tools: new water tank, diesel tank, store area, generator box, water pump, freezer, deck shower, rain catcher, regulators and all the things that go with installation. As you can imagine a 5 minute job usually takes 5 hours because something else breaks or it just does not fit the way you planned.
The last day before we left Trinidad we had a little impromptu party with some of the people on the dock and some of the contractors. As the party was going one of the contractors was still installing the final sunscreen panels. We were bound and determined to leave the next day, as Cheryl had $10 riding on our departing date. (Cheryl won, interest is accruing.) It was a beautiful send off. To our surprise a contractor and a security guard gave us parting gifts, it was very touching.
We had a very easy passage from Trinidad to Grenada. Either no wind or lightening, so we motored. We had Dwayne with us; a third set of hands at the helm makes any passage easier. You cannot image how nice it is to be on the move again!
In Grenada we spent most of our time provisioning, getting the things that are easiest or the least expensive there. But we also said our ‘see yeahs’ to Altair and Dream Chaser as they are staying in the chain. We also said good bye to Johnanthan at Island Water World, when next we hear of him, he will be back in England. We went to some of our favourite local haunts, had some cheap lunches, hiked the hill to the fort overlooking St George’s, hike the hill to see the stadium and swam in the sea. We tried the water maker for the first time, no leaks!! We toasted with our water in Champagne flutes, then with real champagne.
We then left Grenada for Bonaire. Almost a 400 mile passage, to be made in one step. We had our passage weather reviewed by Denise on Tiger Lily, which added comfort that we had not missed something in the weather report. We had 5-10 knots for the first 24 hours, so we motored, with our new Raymarine Wheel Pilot doing all the work. The next 24 hours we had 10 knots, so we had the head sail up and the motor on. The last 12 hours we had 15 knots and 6 foot seas, so we hand steered as we could beat auto in course and it broke the monotony. We arrived in Bonaire just after 9pm, after 62 hours and picked up a mooring ball, as is required. We saw 3 pods of dolphins during the passage, with pictures to prove it!
As we were coming into Bonaire Dwayne caught a Mahi Mahi, the first fish he has ever caught and the first fish ever caught on Interlude! As Karen was sailing, Dwayne and Cheryl filleted the fish. The first question Dwayne asked Cheryl was “Do you know how to fillet a fish?” Cheryl responded “No, do you?” To which the answer was again ‘No’. So they winged it and they still have all their fingers.
The next day we cleared in to Bonaire and went to pay for a month of moorings (it is a marine park, so no anchoring). As we were doing a basic course with Dwayne we went for a day sail, with 20 knots, a fun time for all the tacks/gybes and crew over boards that are needed. We certainly started our time in Bonaire with a fully charged battery.
We spent a day provisioning and Dwayne getting his ticket back to Trinidad. That night at dinner we noticed a sailboat passing way to close to our butt! It was Avalanche, a Danish boat we meet in Trinidad. They picked up the mooring next to us. Dwayne had a chance to say ‘see yeah’ to them before he had to fly off home.
We went with Avalanche to a restaurant “Casablanca” an Argentinean steak house that we had been to in 2003. It was still just as good. They headed off to Aruba shortly after that.
We were in Bonaire for almost a week before we went diving! But we are making up for it now. With the underwater camera we have taken some great pictures of the fish, and a learning more of their names (Fred, Barney and Sam). The reefs are in great condition and lots of fish. We are the leaders in spotting turtles at Yellow Submarine, the dive shop we are renting tanks from. In fact we seem to be the only ones recording sightings. Cheryl is now tired of most types of file fish, especially as I love them and perhaps take too many pictures of them! Cheryl is on the hunt for a seahorse, we saw one here last time.
We met Audrey Paige, friends of Sea Cycles. We had a marvellous day on their boat, snorkelling at Klein Bonaire. They needed to turn on the diesel to charge the battery, so suggested we go to Klein!
We rented a car and went to a beach on the windward side of the island and both Cheryl and I had massages, birthday presents from my brother Bruce. It made for a lovely day. Saturday we dove down the south end of the island to dive, again on Sunday. But on Sunday we had Dennis and Allayne from Audrey Paige with us. Then we had a late lunch at a Chinese food restaurant. Another lovely day.
Slowly we are getting over the tiredness from all the work done in Trinidad. I have basically finished all the items on my to do list from Trinidad. It is time to start a new list. Cheryl still has an item or two, but nothing that is too urgent that we cannot enjoy Bonaire.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Trinidad and Beyond

We left Carriacou for Grenada racing along with Neil on Dream Chaser (as the name stated he was chasing) We had a beautiful sail with 15 knot of wind and less then 4 foot seas. As Dream Chaser was hot on our heels and then passed us we had to make the big decision to raise our main. (Remember Cheryl keeps asking Karen why we have a main when we never use it). This allowed us to pass Neil! We set down our anchor just off Grand Anse near St. George, the capital of Grenada.

The next day we went in by dingy to St. George for some shopping and exploring. We took a local bus up to the nutmeg factory were Karen asked for a bag of nutmeg shells, they thought she want a 50 pound bag which is usually what people want but when Karen took out her baby shopping bag they laugh and said no problem and gave us the shells for free. We use the nutmeg shell on the BBQ to smoke fish or chicken. We walked, which seemed like miles, up to our favorite waterfalls, Concord, at high noon being escorted by a local dog all the way up and she waited for us to have our dip in the falls and then escorted us back to the main road.

After exploring and stocking up on our favorites from Grenada including rum and wine we left to go around to the south part of island. We anchored in Mount Hartman Bay where there were very few boats. (This use to be a very busy harbour, the home of Moorings. The hotel is now unoccupied and in a very bad state of repair.) We then moved over to Hog Island which was where we used to keep our boat. So then we waited for the right weather window to go off to Trinidad. As we waited we learned about Cricket from Neil on Dream Chaser, ate at some of our local haunts and visited. There certain are a lot of change happening in Grenada.

We met up with 2 other boats (Brisa and Against the Wind) to plan our passage to Trinidad. Finally the day arrived and we left Grenada at 3:30 p.m on June 18th. to head off to Trinidad. The seas were flat and the wind was 15 knots and we averaged over 6 knots. At about 2 a.m. we decided to slow down as we did not want to go through the entrance to Trinidad (Boca which means Dragon Mouth) in the dark. At 5:30 a.m. we started to head in. We led the way for the 2 other boats as we had been in Trinidad before, even if it was 10 years ago. We had to go to the custom dock and check in and the crew had to report to immigration as they wanted to see if any one had swine flu. As we were about to leave the custom dock, we found out we had no gears, well we had reverse! So we radio our new home (coral cove) for assistance. We ended up getting towed in to our slip. Frustrating as we were only 50 meters away!

As soon as we checked into the marina Cheryl called to get an air conditioner for the boat because it is so hot here with no wind to cool you down. Within 55 minutes we had air conditioner installed and working on InterludeJ

The next day was a holiday in Trinidad and Summer Solstice for the Swede’s, our dock neighbours. They invited us to join in their celebration, lots of food and schnapps and dancing. That same day a baby was born to the Danish boat, which means that they are now sailing with 4 children. Mother and baby were home by sunset 8 hours later.

On the 1st of July we had another barbeque, to celebrate Canada Day. We had almost 20 people, lots of red and white, lots of food and sparklers for the young at heart!

We spent the first few ‘working days’ in brilliant weather, getting quotes for work to be done (painting the deck, stainless steel, having the rigging checked.) and pricing major items (solar panels, solar panel regulators, diesel regulators, water maker, auto helm). So with the contractors lined up, our ‘stuff’ on order and new standing rigging in place we were hauled so that they could start the painting of the deck. Then rainy season hit. And the 3 week paint job took 5 weeks! But Interlude does look pretty and her deck is sealed.

Met up with some CUNA folks and then Deb spent the weekend with us on the hard. This gave us an opportunity to tour a bit, walk to a waterfalls, the beach and the north east coast of the island.

Dad came down for a visit, we hoped in vain to have the boat in the water for part of the time. We had days were we talked about how hard the rain was coming down, then it came down harder! Amazing really. Again we took the opportunity of touring, this time to the south end of the island.

Being on the hard without your stainless steel is like being in a tree fort with no hand rails or walls.

While the boat was being painted we raised our water line, put on a boot stripe, bought fabric to recover the cushions through out boat. Buying the fabric required a long hot day of walking around Port of Spain, with poor Murray in tow. The city has beautiful architecture, but awful sidewalks. Anyway we have fantastic fabric for the main saloon just waiting to be sewn.

The last night that Murray was down, Cheryl took Dad to the Lighthouse restaurant to celebrate his 80th birthday, it was a beautiful night, with great food.

Karen went home to celebrate her Dad’s 80th on August 1st, to visit with friends, do the Doctor thing and buy boat parts! A thank you to so many who made time to visit with me, it was greatly appreciated. It is like having a Big Hug.

In the mean time Cheryl worked away on the boat. Cheryl and a helper Dwayne, installed the cleats and dodger/Bimini stainless steel, and install the new water maker (which meant rehosing an area of the boat, building two new cabinets in the forward head to hold the water maker and it’s filters), replace faucets and water pump and had a new forward water tank built as there were many holes in the original tank. New mirrors were installed in the two heads. The forward stainless steel was delivered and installed. Cheryl wore a hole in her Crocks walking back and forth to the marine store a million times a day.

When it came time to launch Interlude, Cheryl had lots of help! Four people on board with her, four on the docks and two in dingies! I don’t know a better way to describe how supportive the cruising community is or they just want to be entertained.

Cheryl had meals prepared for her by Jacana ,Elena, Avalanche and Dwayne as well as been taken out for dinner by Bill on Against the Wind and Vincent. Cheryl joined other yachties for dinners at a Chinese restaurant where I tried chicken feet (it was surprising good) and India food and I tried baby octopus (they were cute). So I guess I didn’t miss Karen’s cooking after all and I didn’t starve.

Cheryl, with instructions from Dwayne, learned how to drive on the wrong side of the road. And she only turned on the windshield wipers 4 times in a day. And it wasn't raining!

The second water tank has now been removed and the area is all clean, waiting for us to install the freezer we bought and a smaller water tank and a second diesel tank (neither of which we have purchased). Dwayne rebuilt the drawers under the chart table, not an easy task.