Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Will's Island Hopping...little diving, little snorkeling and sailing

It has been 3 ½ years since the last time I was on Interlude in Roatan. Since then Karen and Cheryl have sailed the thousands of miles across the Pacific to Fiji. Some people talk about sailing the Caribbean or the South Pacific, but very few people actually do it. Just having a chance to go for 2 weeks is a great opportunity so I couldn’t miss it. On the 11 hour flight from Los Angeles I thought how long it would take to do this trip by boat, the flight took long enough.

After arriving in Nadi I had another flight to Taveuni and a short drive to Paradise Resort on the south end of the island where Interlude was moored. Karen and Cheryl were there playing volleyball with the other yachties.
Interlude at Paradise
The next day I did a dive at “fish factory” at the rainbow reef. This was a very scenic reef with large coral growths and a lot of fish.

We went to Savusavu the next day. The ocean swells looked large to me, but Karen and Cheryl didn’t think they were that bad, they had seen worse. They caught a large Mahi Mahi on the way, so we had fish for the next few meals.  
In Savusavu we moored in a calm port and met with people on a boat called Monkey Fist that night. The next day we walked around the small town. I arranged to do a shark dive for the next day. I did see some sharks, but they were hard to get close to, the sharks stayed away from divers.
Look closely maybe you can see his teeth!!

We then went to the north end of the Yasawa Islands. We did a 120 mile, 24 hour passage.  This was timed to go through the reefs during daylight and open water in the dark. We each did 3 hour shifts to watch out for things. This auto pilot did the steering. I thought the waves at night were large, but Cheryl and Karen thought the water was calm, again they had seen worse. A large group of dolphins swam with the boat for a while just before dark.
 
 
 
We stopped at the north end on the Yasawa Islands where we went ashore to do the Kava presentation to the chief of the village. There were no roads in this village, only footpaths from one house to another.  The anchorage got rough by the end of the day so we moved to another site the next day.
North Yasawa beach
Yup Will had to wear a Sulu aka a skirt to do the Kava presentation
We then went to “Blue Lagoon” anchorage, near a large resort. This was very scenic and protected as well. The water was very calm and you wouldn’t know that you were on a boat. We did some snorkeling and saw several pipe fish and other reef fish.
The next day we anchored in Waya where everyone from the other yachts came to Interlude for a few drinks and food. It was a good party and the other boats commented on it on the radio the next day. The second day we did some snorkeling on the reef and then went ashore later in the afternoon.

 
For the last day of the trip we went to Denarau on the main island of Fiji, about 30 miles away. This was a resort area with a new marina and several high end hotels, not the “real Fiji”. We had dinner at a nice restaurant on the edge of the water.  This marina has some large mega yachts that must be 150 feet long or more.
3 sailors enjoying some local grog
From Denarau it is a taxi ride to the Nada airport, we went to the Nadi town and to a rum store for a tasting before I needed to leave to the airport. 

We sailed a total of 236 miles while I was there.  I keep telling Karen and Cheryl to keep notes and write a book when they come back to Canada, but they would have a lot of material and it could be a long time yet before this trip is over.

 

 

 

Friday, September 26, 2014

Pictures Speaks 1000 Words Also Faster WIFI Help Too.

This the reason we are out here.  Interlude and Somerset in Budd's Reef  WOW!!
After checking back into Fiji, we seemed to be stuck in Savu Savu  for a month eating our share of curry and meeting up with old and new friends. 

We actually did not spend all of our time in Savu Savu , we took a ferry from Savu Savu to Lautoka, to help our friend Caz on Somerset to deliver her boat back up to Savu Savu.  We were greeted at the ferry dock with a big hug and off we went to Vuda Marina the marina we left our boat at during last years cyclone season.   As we rode in the taxi from Lautoka to Vuda Marina our friends who heard we were coming started to call on the phone, as they were all waiting for us at the bar.  We had a lovely greeting from our Vuda  friends and staff.  The next morning off we went on Somerset for our 4 day passage to Savu Savu using our tracks from when did the passage with Interlude.  Sailing a Catamaran was a new experience for us both it is definitely different than a mono hull for sure.   We even manage to catch a Walu and a Mahi Mahi which way easier to bring aboard on a Cat and we even did a few repairs as we went along.
Then the focus was on getting Somerset out of the water, which turned out to be easy, it was getting her back in after her repairs that was hard.  They had cut some supports for the trailer to have better access to the area that needed repairs, so when she went back in the trailer buckled.  Cheryl suggested putting wood under the cross beams of the trailer that broke and where digging into the dirt, sort of like creating mini skies.  So the day at low tide with Curly’s staff, Caz, us and Bill from Island Bound we worked at digging out the beams and placing the wood.  After 2 tries and a larger back hoe pushing and lots of help Somerset was afloat.  Yippy. 
We finally broke loose of the Savu Savu and headed back over to our favorite resort.  With a BIG BULA and a wave we were welcomed back to Paradise Resort.  The smiles and laughs all began again.
 After a few days we set sail again back to Viani Bay.  We meet up with our friends on Monkey Fist, Paul and Frances and Caz on Somerset, great food and laughter where on the agenda.   We then went from Viani Bay to an anchorage in North Kioa.  Our first day we had all decided we need to do a garbage burn, so off to shore.  Since the island is mostly made up of coconut palms and mangroves we just had to collected some coconuts and have few to eat.   Paul gave us husking coconut lessons, not sure but we think we need a lot more practice as it is not as easy as it looks.  After our lessons a Bocce game broke out.  The next was water skiing of sorts, we used Caz’s paddle board and a dingy and off we went around the bay…what a blast after you got the hang of standing up on the board without getting a snout full of salt water.  It was an awesome time.  Then Monkey Fist had to move on and we moved to Katherine’s Bay in Rabi to meet up with Bill on Island Bound.
Yup Cheryl is up sort of....
Katherine’s Bay is a lovely flat anchorage.  We even went to church! 
We had a couple of decent walks on the island, and had some great conversations with many locals.  One man gave us directions to a school some ways on; when we got back he gave us a husked coconut to quench our thirst!  Lovely people!

Our next stop was Budd’s Reef, a place The Rose had recommended to us.  We anchored the first night at the most westerly island.  Cheryl tried out her BCD repair, while Caz and Karen snorkeled.  The water was amazingly clear, cold and we did discover that there was no way into shore.  The next day we moved to the village and had our first Sevu Sevu, a welcoming into the village ceremony.  It was really a non-event.  Then we found Willy the chief’s son as the Rose told us to and the fun began.  We hiked up the island, which offered us some amazing views!  
What can we say....Amazing
Then we hauled anchor and headed over to another island, an extinct volcano.  Willy was our guest for 2 nights on board Interlude. The first night we did a night snorkel and the boys speared fished!  With our booty from the guys, fish pie was on the menu for the next night’s dinner on Interlude.   The next day we hiked this island, again amazing views.  
The crater at Cobia in Budd's Reef

And then we had barbequed fish on the beach, with left over salads!  The next day we did a dive in the morning, while Willy tended the dinghies.  We motored back to drop Willy off near the village and then once we had anchored we went into the village to join in on a Meke, a local dance and cava ceremony put on by the village for a small cruise ship.  Once the ‘cruise ship’ guests left if was just us, we sat down on the mats and had an awesome time talking to the chief’s wife Elizabeth.  An amazing couple of days.


Then we headed down to the anchorage at the north end of Taveuni, Matei.  From there we did a provisioning run, had a great snorkel.  Yup we then moved back down to Paradise, again.  We had been gone a month, but not forgotten!  Welcome home…..www.ParadiseinFiji.com
Interlude in Paradise
After a couple of days at Paradise it was back to Viani Bay and this time, a dive a day.  We went with Caz in Clyde (the dingy really it is Trouble’s boyfriend) to a couple of dive sites and one dive with Dolphin Bay Divers, an amazing time on the Great White Wall.  We finally caught up with the Rose and had drinks on their boat and then the next day, dinner on Interlude.  The Rose, John and Pat , where in the graveyard with us in Vuda and will be again this year, but it was the first time we had had them on board, it was great to get to really talk!
White Wall you have to see it to believe it
Circus of Clown Fish
 
He is so cute. A Blackspotted Puffer Fish
 
Guess Who????
 
Can you see him????
 
Here is the other one...A Scorpion Leaf Fish
Lots of Fishies
 

Now we are back at Paradise, for our 7th time, not a surprise, waiting for Will (a friend from Canada) to arrive.  Cheryl has been teaching Suli to read music (Suli works in the dive shop and plays guitar most nights).  He is a great musician, doing it all by ear!
So far the season has not gone as planned but who cares it has still been a great one!

Sunday, July 6, 2014

What have we been doing since Deb left???

We meet up with our friends Enchantment (Vern and Michelle) who just sailed up from New Zealand and where waiting for their son and grandson to arrive from the States.  For us that meant a hair cut from Michelle’s son John, so upon his early morning arrival his first introduction to us was a ‘Hi’ ....pause….pause…. “when can you cut our hair???”, so by noon Cheryl and Karen sported new haircuts!  The next couple days were final provisioning and then a Birthday dinner for Karen, with Enchantment, providing the crown and scepter for the "Queen for the day”.  Just one day ONLY… right Karen?!

Then off to Denarau to catch up with Moondance Carla and Doug and some final okay more final provisioning.  We did some provisioning at a place called Pacific Meats.  Karen phoned in an order, they vacuum sealed the meat, packaged it perfectly and flash froze it.  We walked in, it was boxed, we paid for it and took the next bus back to the boat.  It was amazing.
Then a short trip up to Manta pass on the island of Naviti  and the Mantas didn’t once again didn’t  disappoint us, we will never get tired of watching these amazing creatures. It is also awesome to introduce someone else to the Mantas and we got to introduce John and JJ (Enchantments son and grandson) to the Mantas.  Their faces just had that look the first time they saw them!  We also took Moondance to the Mantas.

Turn right, turn left, turn right...no left just follow the yellow brick road nope okay the yellow line
You can look across at an island and see what looks like clear water….not so much, there will be a reef or 2 under the surface, just for some excitement, between you and that island for sure.  But that being said we had some really good waypoints to follow and off we went.  It took us 3 days to get to the top of the island only traveling in good light with eyes peeled stopping at around 2 pm at an anchorage along the way.  The crossing of the famous Blight passage; Captain Blight after he was set a drift by his crew navigated between the 2 islands of Viti Levu and Vanua Levu surrounded by reefs as the men with him didn’t want to go on shore or wash up on shore as they would probably be eaten by the natives or if they hit a reef by the sharks.  How he went through that passage is amazing, he didn’t even have google earth, oh yeah no Wifi then.
 
 After a couple of days of playing with Mantas our plan was to  make our way up Viti Levu over to Vanua Levu then to Taveuni for June 16th.  We weaved our way up the west coast, along the north coast to about the Northeast tip of Viti Levu, weaving our way is an understatement let just say Fiji is really made up of reefs with an occasional island thrown in, so those pointy bits just under the surfaces aka Coral heads always making it interesting to  move around Fiji.
Well we made our way we stopped at Naingani for a night then off to Savusavu in Vanua Leva, a quick fill up of diesel and food and a walk around town and then we are off to Viani Bay  to see our friends on Somerset Carol/Caz and Jim for some diving…yippy.  So with a 3 am wakeup call we are left Savasava to head to Viani Bay the anchorage near the famous Rainbow reef.  We arrive to also find our friends on Mystic Moon, Kathy and John, there as well and of course a party complete with Champagne is arranged on a boat that we just meet through Mystic, Bella Vita, Bret and Stacey.  Since we were all going diving the next day the number of bottles opened was kept to a minimum. 
A 7:30 am pickup by the dive boat and we are off , a strong current and Cheryl had her inflator hose on her BC come right off during dive so that made for a rather tiring dive trying to maintain buoyancy.  Still we saw the famous blue ribbon eel, beautiful corals and many colourful fish.  
Fiji Blue Ribbon Eel

When we let go of the reef and sailed with the current is was like flying!   The next dive with a rental BC; was good and what a dive.  Rainbow Reef is well named, the fish are certainly colourful, the soft corals amazing and bright.  The next day was another day of diving this time we are doing the White wall, after a  swim through we came upon this sheer wall with coral puffs all in white.  It was amazing.  The next dive was at Cabbage patch and yup the coral looks like huge cabbage, so that must be where the cabbage patch kids come from????? 
White puffs on the White Wall
 



 Cole Slaw anyone?
One of the local characters, Jack  in Viani bay and his family put on a Lomo for the anchorage. Which means for 10 Fijian they will cook, fish, chicken, pumpkin, taro and other things we cannot pronounce in a fire pit covered with banana leaves.  Each plate was heaped with yummy stuff. What a bargain.
The weather was good for all so Mystic continued their voyage towards the Lau and Bella Vita to Viti Levu and Somerset and Interlude went off to Taveuni so that we can pick up our guest Jacqueline.
After picking up Jacqueline we had  a lovey dinner on shore at Paradise resort,.  They had a large party, so they set a table up for us overlooking the water under a bure (which is really just a gazebo), lovely.  By the way this resort is so friendly they even likes us cruisers. Plans were made for an island tour the next morning.  Jacqueline brought us meat and cheese from New Zealand, a huge amount.  Beef tenderloin, Venison and lamb, complete with glaze to cook them with.  Not to mention some amazing cheeses!  And just to explain how nothing goes to waste on a cruising boat, the Styrofoam  container the meat and cheese came in was prized by the resort, the cool packs have been shared with Somerset and the meat and cheese will be slowly enjoyed over time on Interlude.  We did have steaks all around (us and Somerset when Jacqueline was down) but that was it as Jacqueline wanted fish and hour old Mahi Mahi is hard to turn down!
Our tour with Kamal started at 9 am with a stop at the market, the grocery store then off to the waterfalls for a verrrrry cold swim.  We hiked to the second falls but we concluded as it was higher up it must be colder so we only swam in the lower falls but did we mention it was coooooold. 
After being cooled off, and very slow lunch in the big swinging village of SomoSomo…not so much on the swinging part.  Off to the church and of course the date line to get the must have tacky tourist picture of you standing on the 180 degree west line which we guess is today and 180 degree east line so that must be yesterday or is it tomorrow…who knows?????
Is this what we look like yesterday or tomorrow????
We had a day of just chilling on the boat and a day where we went out on Interlude, fishing for a couple of hours where Karen caught a 5 foot Mahi Mahi on a hand line, which we shared with Somerset and gave the rest to the staff at Paradise.  Sushi was definitely on the menu for Interlude.
JUST TAKE THE PICTURE THIS IS HEAVY
Then it was back over to Viani Bay and yup fishing…this time no luck.  The weather was not so great either in that the wind direction and swell was making the anchorage a little rolly so we moved to the other side where the swell was much less.  Plans for the next day were to go snorkeling or diving with Somerset.  But Somerset had to leave and go back to Viti Levu as they hit a reef navigating through the anchorage.  Once again we said our see ya later to Somerset and we parted ways, us going back over to Taveuni to drop Jacqueline off at her resort, after we untangled our anchor chain that got wrapped around a coral head of course. 
We could not believe what we found when we went to the anchorage at the top of Taveuni…..a sandy bottom with no coral head to catch our chain….amazing.  Life is good.  We dropped Jacqueline off with plans to meet the next day for lunch and a massage.  Both where great. 
Well it was time for us to head back to SavuSavu to start our process of heading out of the country to clear Cheryl’s and the boat papers.  See, in Fiji you as an individual can only stay in the country for 4 months and the boat for 18 months and since Karen came back a month after Cheryl our paperwork is out of sync, so we are going to a little French island about 250 miles northeast of Fiji called Futuna to start the clock all over again. 
On the way to Savu Savu Cheryl caught a Mahi Mahi that was almost 4 feet long.  We cleaned it on the way, gave some fish to Matira, the carcass to the staff and again had Sushi!!
Sushi
 In SavuSavu we meet up with Enchantment again did some provisioning and filled up with diesel again and watched the weather for the perfect time to head to Futuna…okay perfect weather is a fantasy but we can always dream.  The dream is starting to look good so with that and 4 weather forecasts almost saying the same thing off we went.
We motor sailed up, a very fast and flat passage.  We took Trouble down and rowed into town to do our paperwork and French food shopping!  We did manage to buy the last 3 duck breaks in the store.  NO baguettes, there goes our breakfast plans!  The anchorage in Futuna is open to the south, which we were the swell usually comes from, so it is rolly.  The roll was not too bad, so we opted not to put out a stern anchor.  Bad decision!  We weighed anchor at 1:30 am as the wind had clocked, as it was forecast to do and the swell associated with the wind made the anchorage horrible!!  The forecast was for the wind to be no more than 20 knots and from the SE.  Our course was SW, so while not a beam, it shouldn’t have been too bad!  But what we got was 12 hours of 25-35 knots, all on the nose and 3+ meter seas.  After that the wind died down and clocked to ESE and the passage was fast and lovely, we made Matei by 1pm, anchor down in sand and no swell!

 

 

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Bula Lega! Bula! all!

Upon arrival I was greeted with signs, cheering, and many hugs from Interlude!  Sounds good but not true... After my early arrival in Fiji, a quick run through customs where my pasipote was cleared and a stop at the cash machine I grabbed a taxi and headed to Denarau Marina where I was greeted by a security guard who helped me through the locked gate and onto the dock where I found Interlude, knocked and was greeted by with her captains who were awake but before coffee.  So, it was coffee then mokotas at 6:00 am on Friday morning.
 
Interlude was put into the wai 2 days before my arrival so the early part of the trip was volivoli for maleka kakana and an early shakedown -- fixing those last minute leaks and things that happened after an 18 month cruising season and 6 months "in the graveyard" which is a hole out of the water providing protection for hurricane season. 



Fiji lies just south of the equator and just west of the International Dateline.  The Fiji group is made up of 333 islands and I was fortunate enough to spend time on three and see many of the Yasawa Group of islands while cruising.  Musket Cove on Malolo Lailai was our first anchorage.  The motor sail over was nice, the water is warm and clear, and the anchorage was uasive.  A trek around the island was in order where we greeted by a lialia pack of wild kolis.  That will get your heart racing!  They charged at us 3 times and were greeted by Cheryl's growl & sticks along with Karen's swinging purse before finally going away.  After the trek Lega had engine trouble and had to be repaired.  Gunk was in the line resulting in the need to clean fuel filters and carburetor.  Repairs resulted in an additional night at Musket Cove, not all bad as we had the opportunity to snorkel the cacau off of Cloud Break, a world famous surf wave and the site for this years world championships.  
Trouble is fixed and we are off to play with the fishies


Trouble's engine was good to go so we cruised to an anchorage on the island of Naviti near Manta Ray Pass.  We were not disappointed.  Interlude was the only yacht in this totoka anchorage.  Winds and a strong surface current made our first afternoon in Manta Ray Pass dreder and Mantas were scarce.  At 7:00am the next morning with uasivi draki we were makutu to head back to the pass and were not disappointed as there were 3 mantas headed right to us with their mouths wide open.  We stayed for rua awas.  Wow! 
After a few games and lunch we were to vakarau-taka to cabe for a trek on the beach and a snorkel along the shoreline.


Vakaloloma draki was predicted so we headed back a day early to ensure Interlude's captains, and guest all arrived safely in Vuda Marina.  Uca came in early on Friday so many games were played.  The final tally was Cheryl & Karen (vitu) to Deb's (ono).  Congrats!



Vata vakarau itaus.   Moce!  Loloma Deb

 Limited translation, you will need to figure out the rest of the words in the local language of Fiji!
>> Awa - hour
>> Bula - hello
>> Cabe - go ashore
>> Cacau - coral reef
>> Draki - weather
>> Dreder - difficult
>> Kakana - food
>> Kolis - dogs
>> Lialia - mad
>> Lima - five
>> Makutu - eager
>> Maleka - delicious
>> Mokota - hug
>> Ono - six
>> Pasipote - passport
>> Rua - two
>> Totoka - beautiful
>> Uasivi - excellent
>> Uca - rain
>> Vakaloloma - poor
>> Vakarau-taka - get ready
>> Vitu - seven
>> Volivoli - shopping
>> Wai - water

Monday, March 3, 2014

The Last Days of the South Island and the Race North

Still in the Catlins!  After seeing the Penguins during the day, we still went back in the evening to see if they really do come back to feed the little ones.  Yup three of the babies were still waiting for their delivery of mushed/wet fish (you get the picture) from mom or dad.  Then a delivery immerged from the sea, a parent was on it’s way to waiting mouths. For a bird nearing extinction we certainly saw a few! Way cool.
The next day it rained, and it rained and it rained!  We stayed in!  So what do you do when it rains CARDS of course.  Every second hand we would look up and watch the Hector dolphins play in the waves, then back to playing cards.  We played cards and Farkle with a couple who were there until the end of the day and they even taught us a new game called ‘Screw your neighbour’.  A good game, now added to Interlude’s list of games.
The next day on the road again and off to Dunedin but of course as soon as we saw a sign for a waterfalls we had to stop, the Purakaunui Falls.  The rain had mostly abated and the falls was pretty, but muddy due to the rain we had!
As we approached Dunedin we called Spruce, they happened to be passing our parking lot, so we met up for a tour of the train station (complete with Royal Doulton tiles in the main hall) and had lunch at a local restaurant, upscale, but nice any way!
At Dunedin we stayed at a BBH place called the Manor House.  This was our first real miss, it was awful.
We started the next day in Dunedin at the organic famer’s market.  So nothing was cheap, but it is NZ after all, so we didn’t expect it to be.  But we did go home with sausage, peas, beets and blue cheese, what more could you ask for?!  Next we went to the Cadbury factory for a tour.  We were given chocolate on the tour, but only milk chocolate.  However the tour was fun and interesting, highlighted by the chocolate waterfall!  The waterfall has been built in an old silo, it drops 5 stories and something like a tone of molten chocolate at a time.  And why, “because they can”!  Then we went to Baldwin Street, the steepest street in the world, with a gradient of 1:2.86, or 19 degrees.  It was something to walk up it.  Even in a town the view from the hill was worth it. 
A  great ski hill but where is the snow???
On the way ‘home’ we stopped at the museum, but it was supposed to be free and they wanted to charge, being museumed out we opted to walk the university grounds instead.  Some beautiful buildings and interesting to watch as Uni was about to start and you saw many kids being dropped off, Mom’s and Dad’s buying last minute essentials (essentials to parents, as what child really needs a cloths drying rack).
Up on Signal Hill looking at Dunedin
We trekked (by car) to Signal Hill.  Poorly marked, but we found it and were rewarded with a great view.  


Then we were on our way to the art gallery, where Spruce had told us to look at some sketches.  We park and walk into the Octagonal.  There is a bags and pipes tournament going on.  Pipers and drummers starting at 8/9 years old playing with people ranging into their seventies after all we are in Scottish Land or is it New Zealand????.  So we had to sit and a coffee and got serenaded, it was lovely!! 
The art gallery was a disappointment, maybe we are not into that type of art, who knows.
Now onto the peninsula, the Otago Peninsula.  We had gone to see the Royal Albatross in the morning.  The ‘proper’ viewing place was closed until noon, but we took the path beside it to the look-out over the sea.  While we were standing, freezing our butts off we see this really large bird flies by, the Albatross!  We also saw several rare varieties of gulls (like the black backed gull).  We walked down to the water of the bay and walked past several not too smelly fur seals.  Then we spotted the sign for the coffee shop, which as we were freezing, was very appealing!  Then after a few trips across the peninsula, to see what else we could see we went to check into our Hostel.  We were staying at McFarmers, one of our few one night stands!  While fully booked, we were the only ones there; we played games and generally had no issues spending the rest of the day at a place over-looking the bay.
The next day we headed for Cromwell, to meet up with Dancing Walrus and to tour some wineries!  We checked into Pinot Lodge, yes you guessed it a BBH Hostel.  It seemed to have many issues!  But Karen went and spoke to the manager, a few things were changed and it then seemed fine.  When Joni and Ken arrived off we went to check out a few of the wineries!  The next day we walked to the former gold mines around Mount Difficullty.  We lost the trail back several times, but made it out, with Karen having scavenged thyme and pears!  We went to the winery for a tasting and lunch.  Ken only drinks reds, but now reds and Pinot Gris.  Our next stop was “The Nose” this is a place that has a scent room and wine tasting.  Ken had a nap while the girls did the scent room, movie and tasting.  Now Joni, who is really only a beer drinker at least the day before she was, is now a slightly convert to wine drinker!
We moved onto Lake Tekapo.  We stopped at Omarama, to book an hour of gliding.  And we stopped at Poppies for a light lunch.  We split a Vension pie, which was to die for!  At Lake Tekapo we had booked into Taylor Made, a lovely place, although it did not have a view of the Lake but we were only a block away from the lake.  Joni and Ken booked the same place so while Ken had a nap, the girls walked the shore and to the old church, the Church of the Good Sheppard built in 1935.  We took a VERY indirect path back to the hostel, which gave us a good idea of the area and which restaurants we wanted to try.  That night is was sausage and grilled veggies on a real wood BBQ with Cheryl practiced her Boy scout techniques for lighting a fire and Karen turned the veggies into a wonderful salad…. yummy. A few games of cards and some star gazing and we called it a day.

The next day we headed off to Mount Cook in our car. 
Can you you see the moon???
 As we got there, the moon was in the perfect picture taking position and the weather was also co-operating! .  We got to the blue pools, now green!  (The pools were originally blue as the water was glacier fed, now it is rain fed and gets algae, so is green)  We hiked to the glaciers, Mueller and Hooker, which was lovely, ate cherries at the glacier lake and then headed to the car.  The girls walked to some blue pools and the Tasman glacier.  A job well done, we headed back to the hostel for dinner, green thai curry and more cards.  

The next day we were off to Mount John, walking distance from the hostel.  We thought that it would be an easy walk, but “not so much”!  It as a very steep trail.  And to add insult to injury, there is a road that we could have taken to the top.  Oh well, now we had an excuse to eat lamb shanks, lovely!
View from Mount John looking over Lake Tekapo
The next day Joni and Ken head off to Dunedin and house/dog sitting and we head to Omarama and gliding.  Karen got to go up in the owners, Gavin’s new toy (a very modern glider).  It was awesome.  The views, and Mike (Karen’s pilot) was a great tour guide and teacher.  After about half an hour we had enough height and little enough turbulence that Karen got the ‘helm’.  Your feet work the rudder, OK, I get what that does, and the stick does the up and down of the nose and turns the plane.  To say the least the first turn I did was NOT stellar.  But Mike said, ‘that was good’… now….  He took over for a few minutes, then Karen is back at them helm!  A turn to the left, good job, then a turn to the right, again good job, now maybe deserved.  And piloting a straight line, not too bad.  So Mike takes over again, before we land he asked if I wanted to do a ‘wing over’ or a Chandrelle.  Sure why not, so we pick up speed, by dropping, and turn over the wing, scary the first time, graceful the second!  Would you like to do a loop the loop, OK, why not, do I look crazy.  So we drop the nose to 120kn and then go up and do a 360 turn, apparently we felt about 3.5 gs!  Glad Mike was driving!  We levelled out and took pictures of Cheryl landing, then landed ourselves!  What an experience.
12,250 feet, on air, oh what a feeling

Nice view from the office
Cheryl here, well we started after Karen and then discovered that I didn't weight enough for this glider so they had to send someone off to get some weight.   I did say I had a big breakfast but not enough I guess.  So after being all strapped in I had to unstrap and sit on a few extra pound of gun shot…yup gun shot hummmmm.  Off we finally went,  the takeoff was great after they told me how to fall out of the glider and pull the parachute should we need too……hummmmm.  My pilot Martin was a seat of the pants type pilot, he read the clouds not the instruments way cool so after we took off and finally released from the tow-plane  (that thing with a motor) we went hunting for a cloud.  Yup we found one and started our up ward climb…really you just go around in tight circles on an up draft and then you are gliding.  Well we were having a great time checking out the mountains and the clouds, what a day at the office!  Then we saw Karen’s glider off in the distance so we went for a closer look as Karen was going up we unfortunately we found the down draft.  So our 9500 feet turned very quickly into 6000 feet so we decided, or  Martin did, that we should go find our own air.  As we cruised around we saw some the lakes and snow cover mountains but we could not find the up draft, so we were slowly losing altitude.  We tried another area which usually has an up draft, but no luck, Martin tried hard to find an up draft, but no luck and without an engine the time had come to say goodbye to the sky and head to the landing strip.  It was still an awesome experience and yup it was on my bucket list but I think I need to try it again and hopefully next time I get to fly too.
Going up.....pull baby pull
What goes up must come down

A last night at Taylor Made and then onto Christchurch, or what was left of it.  The downtown really is not there.  Or rather there are a lot of parking lots!  They are looking at rebuilding some places, like the cathedral, but money is an issue.  They have 47 million, but need another 27!  So right now services are being held in a paper cathedral, which apparently has a 10 year life span.  Container, shipping containers are being used a store fronts and restaurants, kind of neat. 
Christchurch's New Regent Street
 Then we went to Akaora, a French settlement on the Banks Peninsula.  We stayed in a lovely place, Chez la Mer.  We got hit by hail storm half an hour before we finished our drive, the second time since we arrived in New Zealand!  Then the challenge was to picked moments when it was not raining to walk a bit of town.  The next day was a perfect day, so we drove to the moari settlement in the next bay, then back and parked to walk out to the light house, as we couldn’t seem to find it by road!  We had a nice seafood lunch, then back to the hostel.
We are now on our run north.  We went from the Bank’s peninsula to Blenheim, via Kaikoura. After a disappointing lunch we carried up the coast to Blenheim, to the Grapevine, where we had stayed before.  We got a great welcome from the owner and one of the young fellows we had met 6 weeks earlier who was still there.  A good nights sleep and off to the ferry and the north island.
Another picture perfect passage across the Cook Straight!  Once we clear the ferry we are on our way to Taupo, to stay with Harry and Karen again.  Very good to see them again.  Karen, again, made an amazing meal, this time lamb!  A good nights sleep and we are off to hike up the ‘hill’ behind their house, Mont Tauhara some 1100 meters with an awesome view, not just of Lake Taupo, which we were expecting, but also to the east.  
Lake Taupo
The next day we did nothing!  OK, we walked into town as we needed a cucumber to go with the smoked salmon and bought T Shirts!  But that was it.  A well deserved break.
The next day sees us on our way to Jacqueline’s in South Auckland.  We had cheese and cheese, corn and then we tried to see how many ways you can do mussels for dinner, what an awesome dinner.  Next day Jacqueline made breakfast, a new type of fish, cooked tomatoes with basil from the garden and fresh corn on the cob!!  It is sad to say good bye to friends like Jacqueline, Harry and Karen, but both groups have said that they might make it too Fiji, so it is so long for now and not good bye!
Another long day of driving, south Auckland to Paihia.  We check into Seabeds, our last BBH Hostel, and another truly lovely one.  We had dinner with Enchantment, Corn Beef and Cabbage, a favorite of Karen’s and now of Cheryl’s!  We repacked, Cheryl to head back to the boat, Karen to Canada!  Thankfully, Enchantment is heading to Fiji and is taking our extra ‘stuff’.
We turned in our car on Monday.  Sad as she was so much a part of our trip.  A great steed!  After a cheese and pate lunch, final laundry and blog writing with a rose in hand.  And a quick drink with John a guy we meet on our travel our last dinner in the Paihia was special.  We were off early the next day to Auckland by bus and stayed at Airport Hotel.  Ready to fly out and say goodbye to New Zealand.
We have done New Zealand proud.  Highlights?  The people and the sights we have seen, everything except the Kiwi be that the bird or the fruit on a tree! But Cheryl did buy a T-shirt with the bird on it.

Thank you New Zealand

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Speed, Flying and Wild Life.....South Island Continued

After our hike up to the glazier the next day was a rest day, and yup, Wanaka has a winery, Rippon Winery, so we heard and heeded the call!  An excellent Rose and Pinots caught our attention, plus an amazing view overlooking the lake the only down side was the price point but of course we still supported the local economy and bought a bottle. 

We went from Wanaka to Arrowtown.  While only an hour drive, the last few minutes includes more than its share of switchbacks! Arrowtown has a short walking tour which focuses on the Chinese role in the gold mining era, it was interesting to see how they lived.  Then onto our lodge, Poplar Lodge another BBH.  We were walking/shopping in Arrowtown when we ran into Spruce again, not surprising this time as they knew were we would be.  Both of us bought some ‘green stone’, we had been looking at them for a while but had not found the right thing.  Both of us found what we were looking for in the same store.

We had arranged to meet up with our friends on Enchantment (Michelle and Vern) in Queenstown so since Arrowtown is only 20 minutes away and only a few switchbacks, off we headed but it was cloudy and bitterly cold, so we went from coffee shop, to pub, to an ice cream shoppe! What a way to spend a day with some friends.  Then back over the hill to our lodge. 

The next day we met another of our cruiser friends Minnie B (Phil and Norma) as well as Enchantment for a trip up the Gondola in Queenstown.  
Queenstown from the Gondola

 The views are truly amazing, and there is a ‘luge’ track! Let the race begin… We had to do a mandatory “learn to luge first run”, and then we all had lunch and some laughs.  Then off to the fast track.  Cheryl and Michelle were the speed demons and ganged up on Karen on the last run, they let Karen go first, and then Cheryl kept trying to overtake, even bumping Karen, which allowed Michelle to zoom past, with Cheryl not far behind. A great run and a great way to end our luging!  We had moved into Queenstown, so just walked back to our place, The Flaming Kiwi. 
A Bird, A Plane ...nope just Cheryl and her Pilot

The next day Enchantment met us at our BBH and we went hang gliding.  At least the girls did, Vern was our photographer.  The hang gliding experience was excellent.  We all got the chance to ‘fly’ the gliders, which was amazing, and the views were awesome.  We all bought the pictures and video, easy marks!
Can I steer this thing? What do mean turn left???

The next day we headed to Milford Sound part of the Fiordlands.   (The Fiordlands are a large area in the south west of the South Island were the terrain was dug out by glaciers.)  We had the audio package for the road to Milford Sound to listening to; we had Mike as our guide okay it was the guy on the recording.  It certainly made the trip go by fast plus it was educational and fun.  You start in flat country, with the mountains in the background, pretty.  Then you go over the pass and you are into the valley of the sounds were the views were amazing.  We made only 2 stops on the way, Mirror Lakes a 5 minute walk and the Chasm a 20 minute walk. 
Chasm..the power of water
We were expecting to meet up with Minnie B if we were early enough; we just got there in time and found that Spruce was there too, excellent!  We checked into the Milford Lodge, this will be our first dorm experience.  But for the first night we know our roommates, Georgie and Jake, Brits that we had met at two earlier BBHs.  They helped us adapt.

Can you say ‘SANDFLIES’?  When they say there are sandflies in the Sounds they are not kidding.  The lodge has a large kitchen, but no barbeque due to the Sandflies!  The lodge even provides repellant, which we all apply liberally and often.  After a great breakfast, which was part of our package at the lodge, we grabbed the bus to the dock.  The boat ride (part of our package) through the sound was beautiful.  The captain brought the bow of the boat up close enough that we were getting wet from the spray of 2 waterfalls and we even saw a penguin and a number of sea lions.  They dropped us off at the Discovery Centre, (part of the package) which is an underwater viewing platform; you are some 10 metres underwater.  We saw Black Coral, which is white, several types of triple fins we had not seen before and a different type of trigger fish.  As ‘we’ are the ones in the cage you do not know what you will see.  Normally the water is brown from the tanins from the trees and has a large layer of fresh water on the surface.  But it had not rained in several days and the fresh water layer was thin and clean and the visibility was great.  As we waited for the return boat we had our box lunch which was also included.  We walked back to the lodge to enjoy a glass of wine and then prepare dinner and hide from the sandflies.
Milford Sound by boat
Key Summit with Lake Marian in the Valley
The next day was again perfect weather.  We started back and stopped at an area called “The Divide”, where the Routeburn walk starts.  We hiked to the Key Summit, a place that allows you to see several ranges and Lake Marian.  Beautiful!  Very glad we stayed the 2 nights in the sound, as this allowed us to be on the trail early in the day away from the crowds.  On our way down the summit we passed a bus load of hikers coming up, name tags and all.

We had booked the Barnyard Lodge, just outside of Te Anua which is about 2 hours from the Sound.  What a view we had from the lodge and our cabin.  And an on suite bathroom! Yup you guessed we have being staying in places where we share a bathroom. The next morning we walked the beginning of the Kepler trail, just out to Shallow Bay Hut.  A very nice walk, mostly flat in beech forest.  We were fascinated by the number of different types of mushrooms we passed.  Unfortunately, we don’t know if any of them were edible.  Plus we saw Canadian Geese. We went into town to the visitor centre, and they suggested that we watch the film in town, a helicopter trip over Fiordland, which included Milford Sound.  The film was amazing, especially as the helicopter went over the waterfalls!

We had a text from our other cruiser friends Dancing Walrus (Ken and Joni).  They had sent it when we were in the Sound, were there is no phone coverage so after getting back into cell range we made a date to meet up in town for a drink or two and to catch up.

Te Anua to the Catlins, via Manapouri.  We had a text from Spruce on route and they suggested that we go into the museum in Invercargill, so we did it after all it was just another left turn.  So we got to see a live Tuatara (a lizard) and the fastest Indian, (a motorcycle) which was an 1929 motorcycle that this New Zealand guy made famous by racing it at the Salt Flats in the States (or Sir Anthony Hopkins did when he stared in the movie:  The fastest Indian.) and still holds the fastest land record.  On route we had the best fish and chips yet, not greasy and made with Blue Cod, the local specialty.  Our final destination was Curio Bay and the Lazy Dolphin in the Catlins, our BBH lodge.   O’ yeah forgot to mention our highlight along our drive, as we were heading along the highway we saw a sign for Niagara Falls, being good tourist and Canadians we stop for a look, okay let’s see:  if you were an ant this waterfalls may look as massive as Niagara Falls, yup the guy who named it had a great sense of humor.


As we were being shown around our lodge just outside the kitchen window we could see the Hector dolphins jumping in the waves. Hector Dolphins before we even left the lodge, but not good enough for us so off we went to the lookout at the end of the bay for another angle, way cool.  Our little hike then lead us to the petrified forest, where ash buried the forest, preserving it.  It also happens to be where the yellow eyed penguins have a nesting area.  And as it happen a parent was coming in to feed it’s babies!  What a sight.  As we made our way back we saw 2 babies sleeping and another parent coming ashore.  After dinner we walked back and saw the same 2 babies waiting to be fed and another parent coming ashore to feed another hidden baby.  What a lucky day.